A book named “Not African Enough” has been released this month by the Nairobi-based arts collective Nest, featuring the work of many designers who are trying to fight the reputation African fashion has been given by only showing wax prints. One designer even calls this the “vicious cycle” because those traditional bright patterned fabrics that have come to identify African fashion are not the only way designers wish to express their art, however, if they don’t, many seem to forget they, too, are African inspired.

Since many of the prints that designers use in Africa come from China or the Netherlands, the materials designers receive are only the perception of what “Africa is supposed to be” according to those countries. Therefore, many designs are limited to strong colors and prints that are not necessarily what the artist is meaning to transmit. “’Not African enough’” is a derogatory term routinely lobbed at artists, creators and thinkers who step outside the narrow confines of what the world—and Africans—think it means to look, talk like, think like and be an African,” says Sunny Dolat, a stylist and designer that participated in many pages of the recently published book.

In the book mentioned, designers are shown expressing designs that are not only African, but extremely different from what we are used to see. Models wearing leather, bridal gowns and jewelry that is not necessarily colorful reflects how African culture can transmit a wide variety of styles.

The new revolution that African designers are trying to create is definitely opening creative minds and bringing down walls that many were obligated to stay inside of, just because of the reputation they felt should maintain. Big names in the fashion industry such as Firyal Nur Hossain, Kepha Maina, Ami Doshi Shah, M+K, and Munga are all joining forces and showing the world a new way of African fashion. Consequently, this is causing a questioning of old ways with ideas such as:  “As Kenyan designers, do we really need to include wax print in everything we do? It’s the easiest way for us to define ourselves as Africans, but it ignores the fact that we’re influenced by everything around us.” These designers are now able to look at the new age, and set the tone of African fashion.